A Comprehensive Step-by-Step Tutorial

What Is a Sunbonnet Sue Quilt?

The Sunbonnet Sue Quilt is one of the most beloved and recognizable appliqué quilt patterns in American quilting.

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The design features a little girl wearing a large sunbonnet that completely hides her face. The oversized bonnet became the signature characteristic of the pattern.

Sunbonnet Sue first became popular in the early 1900s and reached its greatest popularity during the 1920s through the 1940s. Since then, thousands of variations have been created, making it one of the most iconic appliqué quilt designs in quilting history.

Unlike pieced quilts such as the Log Cabin or Nine Patch, a Sunbonnet Sue quilt is primarily an appliqué quilt, meaning fabric shapes are sewn onto a background fabric rather than pieced together edge-to-edge.

Quilting Vocabulary

Term	Definition
Appliqué	Sewing one piece of fabric onto another to create a design.
Raw Edge Appliqué	Appliqué where fabric edges remain exposed and are secured with stitching.
Needle-Turn Appliqué	A hand appliqué technique where seam allowances are turned under while sewing.
Fusible Web	A heat-activated adhesive used to temporarily bond appliqué pieces to the background fabric.
Background Fabric	The fabric onto which the appliqué is attached.
Template	A reusable pattern used for cutting fabric shapes.
Motif	An individual decorative design, such as one Sunbonnet Sue figure.
Blanket Stitch	A decorative stitch commonly used around appliqué edges.
Satin Stitch	A dense zigzag stitch used to completely cover raw fabric edges.
Freezer Paper	Heavy paper commonly used to make reusable appliqué templates.
Reverse Appliqué	A technique where fabric is cut away to reveal another fabric underneath.
Fussy Cutting	Cutting fabric to showcase a specific part of a print.

Materials

Fabric

You will need:

Background fabric
Fabric for the bonnet
Fabric for the dress
Fabric for the sleeves
Fabric for the apron (optional)
Fabric for the stockings
Fabric for the shoes
Fabric for accessories (flowers, baskets, balloons, etc.)

Recommended Fabrics

100% quilting cotton

Popular choices include:

Moda
Riley Blake
Robert Kaufman
Kona Cotton
Art Gallery Fabrics
Andover Fabrics

Other Materials

Fusible web (optional)
Lightweight interfacing (optional)
Batting
Backing fabric
Binding fabric
Matching thread
Embroidery floss (optional)

Tools

Sewing machine
Hand sewing needles
Rotary cutter
Fabric scissors
Small embroidery scissors
Acrylic ruler
Cutting mat
Steam iron
Ironing board
Fabric marking pencil
Fine pins
Appliqué pins
Paper scissors

Finished Quilt Size

A common throw-size Sunbonnet Sue quilt measures approximately:

60″ × 72″

Each appliqué block is typically:

12″ × 12″ finished

12½” × 12½” unfinished

Components of One Sunbonnet Sue Block

A traditional Sunbonnet Sue figure consists of several separate fabric pieces:

Bonnet
Head
Dress
Arm
Hand
Legs
Shoes

Many patterns also include:

Apron
Basket
Flower
Balloon
Teddy bear
Umbrella
Cat
Puppy

Each block may feature Sue in a different pose or activity.

Preparing the Templates

Print or trace each pattern piece onto template plastic or freezer paper.

Each piece should be labeled with:

Piece name
Grain direction
Number of pieces required

If using freezer paper:

Iron the shiny side onto the wrong side of the fabric.

Cut each piece, leaving approximately ¼” seam allowance if using needle-turn appliqué.

If using fusible appliqué, cut directly on the template line with no seam allowance.

Cutting the Fabric

Carefully cut all appliqué pieces.

Keep all pieces organized in labeled envelopes or trays.

Avoid stretching curved edges.

Preparing the Background Block

Cut one square measuring:

12½” × 12½”

Press thoroughly.

Ensure the fabric is perfectly square before beginning.

Arranging the Design

Lay the appliqué pieces onto the background fabric.

Do not begin sewing immediately.

Move the pieces until the proportions look balanced.

Pay special attention to:

Bonnet angle
Dress placement
Foot position
Arm position

Leave generous background space around the figure.

Attaching the Pieces

There are three popular appliqué methods.

Method One: Fusible Appliqué (Recommended for Beginners)

Apply fusible web to the wrong side of each appliqué fabric.

Cut each shape.

Remove the paper backing.

Arrange the pieces on the background fabric.

Fuse with a hot iron according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

After all pieces are fused:

Secure the edges with stitching.

Method Two: Needle-Turn Appliqué

Turn the seam allowance under using the tip of the needle.

Hand stitch using nearly invisible stitches.

Continue around every curve.

This traditional method produces an elegant, heirloom-quality finish.

Method Three: Machine Appliqué

Place all pieces onto the background.

Secure with pins or fusible web.

Stitch around each shape using one of the following:

Blanket stitch
Satin stitch
Narrow zigzag stitch
Straight stitch (for raw-edge appliqué)

This is the fastest method.

Stitching Order

Always stitch from the lowest layer upward.

Typical order:

Legs
Shoes
Dress
Sleeves
Arms
Hands
Bonnet
Accessories

Layering creates a realistic appearance.

Making Multiple Blocks

Repeat the process for every block.

Many traditional Sunbonnet Sue quilts feature:

Sue gardening
Sue skipping rope
Sue carrying flowers
Sue flying a kite
Sue holding balloons
Sue baking
Sue feeding birds
Sue with a kitten
Sue reading
Sue carrying a basket

Using different poses keeps the quilt visually interesting.

Joining the Blocks

Arrange the completed blocks into rows.

Example:

5 blocks across

6 blocks down

Join the blocks using a ¼-inch seam allowance.

Press seams carefully.

Alternate seam directions to reduce bulk.

Adding Borders (Optional)

Borders frame the quilt and increase its finished size.

A simple border can be:

2½” wide

4½” wide

Many quilters add two borders:

An inner border in a solid fabric
An outer border in a coordinating print

Creating the Quilt Sandwich

Layer the quilt:

Backing (wrong side up)

↓

Batting

↓

Quilt top (right side up)

Smooth each layer carefully.

Basting

Secure the layers using:

Curved safety pins
Temporary spray adhesive
Hand basting stitches

Ensure there are no wrinkles or folds.

Quilting

Popular quilting designs for Sunbonnet Sue include:

Stitch in the ditch around the blocks
Echo quilting around each figure
Meandering (free-motion loops)
Feather motifs
Crosshatching
Gentle curves
Small floral fillers
Heart motifs

Avoid overly dense quilting that could compete with the appliqué.

Trimming

After quilting:

Trim the quilt evenly.

Check that all four corners are square.

Making the Binding

Cut strips:

2½ inches wide

Join them using diagonal seams.

Press the seams open.

Fold the strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together.

Press again.

Attaching the Binding

Sew the binding to the front of the quilt using a ¼-inch seam allowance.

Create neat mitered corners.

Fold the binding to the back.

Finish by hand with a blind stitch or by machine with a narrow topstitch.

Final Pressing

Remove any visible threads.

Give the quilt one final gentle press.

Avoid pressing directly over heavily textured embroidery or decorative stitching.

Caring for a Sunbonnet Sue Quilt

Wash in cold water on a gentle cycle.
Use mild detergent.
Avoid bleach.
Tumble dry on low heat or air dry flat.
Store folded loosely in a cool, dry place.
Keep out of prolonged direct sunlight to minimize fading.

Common Beginner Mistakes

Placing appliqué pieces before checking the overall composition.
Stretching curved fabric edges while sewing.
Forgetting seam allowances when using needle-turn appliqué.
Using thread that contrasts too strongly with the fabric.
Pulling stitches too tightly, causing puckering.
Skipping the pressing step after fusing or stitching.
Crowding the background with oversized motifs.
Inconsistent block sizes that make assembly difficult.

Professional Tips

Trace templates onto durable plastic or freezer paper for repeated use.
Organize each block’s pieces in separate labeled bags before sewing.
Audition fabric combinations before cutting to ensure good contrast between the bonnet, dress, and background.
Use fine appliqué needles (sizes 9–11) for hand stitching to make nearly invisible stitches.
Match your thread color to the appliqué fabric rather than the background for the least noticeable stitching.
Press frequently, but avoid sliding the iron across the appliqué to prevent distortion.
If making a traditional quilt, vary the pose and accessories of each Sunbonnet Sue block to create a storytelling effect across the finished quilt.
Add a quilt label to the back with your name, the date, and the quilt’s title—this is a cherished tradition in heirloom quilting.